From The Sunday Times:
July 1st, 2007, Road Hog, Locatelli, Honiton Devon by Mark Taylor

"The Devon market town of Honiton was once an important coaching stop on the London to Exeter route. These days it’s a convenient stopping point for drivers on the A30 or those taking the A35 to the west Dorset heritage coast overlooking Lyme Bay.

Devon towns are best known for their coronary-inducing cream teas but the new Locatelli delicatessen and restaurant is introducing the health benefits of the Mediterranean diet into the land of clotted cream and clotted arteries.

If you expect to find Giorgio Locatelli, the Michelin-starred celebrity chef, in the kitchen you’ll be disappointed, but the food is authentically Italian and the ingredients are of the highest quality. Nothing is genetically modified and organic ingredients are used where possible.

Housed in an old dairy between a chartered accountants and a wool shop, Locatelli consists of a small delicatessen and open kitchen on the ground floor – where you can watch the chefs prepare the food – and a relaxed restaurant upstairs. Order at the counter in front of the kitchen and the food is brought to the table by one of the chefs.

As well as the printed menu, there are several daily specials. Arrive before lunch and the counter is often full of tarts and quiches hot from the oven – spider crab and salmon tart, perhaps, or brie, rocket and potato frittata.

All the food can be taken away, including sandwiches on sourdough baguettes or farmhouse granary bread, paninis and made-to-order pizzas after 5.30pm.

With the coast only a short drive away, you could stock up at Locatelli and be eating your antipasti plate of fine cheeses, charcuterie, Tuscan artichokes, olives and roasted tomatoes on a beach within minutes. Or you can order one of the Locatelli picnic hampers and pick it up on the way."